Up and at 'em on Sunday morning. The sun is shining, the flowers (above) are blooming and spring is in the air. I'm off to St. Peter's Basilica to celebrate the Mass at one of the side altars. St. Peter's is about 3 football fields long, so there are lots of side altars besides the main altar which is built, and has always been built, over the site of St. Peter's burial. If you want to celebrate Mass at St. Peter's you have to show up at 0700 before the tourists fill the church... and obviously you have to show up dressed like a priest (with credentials, if they ask for them). So, I put on my cassock (long black garment that buttons all the way from the floor to your neck... and brought my new alb with me. They provide everything else.
New alb hanging outside my wardrobe |
St. Gregory the Great Altar at St. Peter's, Rome |
The sacred remains of Pope St. Gregory the Great, under the altar |
From St. Peter's I went for the Traditional Latin Mass at Santissima Trinita dei Pelligrini... but in this case, a Pontifical Mass because Pope Francis' vicar, Bishop Zuppi the auxiliary Bishop of central Rome was the celebrant. More about that in a moment. Meanwhile, I am getting pretty good at finding my way around - and I often use this piazza as my 'marker'. It is Piazza Navona:
Monday morning, bright and early for the looooooooooooongest walk to a Station Church yet. I probably pushed myself too hard, and have been paying for it a bit yesterday and today. I left a bit later than I usually would, and then I forgot something and had to go back, so I was even later... so I was hoofing it at a pace that was a bit too much for me in my 'weakened' condition. Add to all of this the fact that the Church for Monday, Quattro Coronati (sounds like an Audi?) is perched at the top of a hill so that we had a fairly steep climb right at the end when you are already tired.
Still, it was amazing. It is an ancient church, like they all are, but it is quite far out of the way and it is lovingly served by Augustinian nuns who tried to welcome us warmly. I say 'tried', not because they didn't succeed, but because there had been an power outage and the whole place was in darkness. I took these pictures after the Mass when the sun was up. We had been walking in the dark for most of the pilgrimage, and there were no lights in the interior of the Church.
It actually turned out to be a blessing in my opinion. The nuns had put dozens of candles all around the church and it was absolutely mystical. Quiet, contemplative and oozing with exactly the kind of atmosphere that one imagines in an medieval monastery church. It couldn't have been better.
Of course, I still had to walk home... and attend a two hour class on proto-Renaissance art and architecture... and then tour St. Peter's Basilica with our lecturer. Had Elizabeth Lev not been so dynamic, and engaging, I might have succumbed to my exhaustion. But something had to give... so, tired and sore, I neglected my blog for a couple of days. Now, I'm playing catch-up.
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