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STATIONS OF THE CROSS

Tuesday 1 April 2014

Catching up: Sunday and Monday


Most of the pics I take for this blog are low-light in dark churches, out of focus attempts to capture something that is too far away... so, in order to reinforce the fact that it is definitely spring in Rome, I got up close and personal with this flower just outside the front door of Casa O'Toole where I am living.  Maybe someone can tell me what kind of flower that is, since knowing names of Roman flora is not my strong suit... but they are pink, so that should suit some of you.


Up and at 'em on Sunday morning.  The sun is shining, the flowers (above) are blooming and spring is in the air.  I'm off to St. Peter's Basilica to celebrate the Mass at one of the side altars.  St. Peter's is about 3 football fields long, so there are lots of side altars besides the main altar which is built, and has always been built, over the site of St. Peter's burial.  If you want to celebrate Mass at St. Peter's you have to show up at 0700 before the tourists fill the church... and obviously you have to show up dressed like a priest (with credentials, if they ask for them).  So, I put on my cassock (long black garment that buttons all the way from the floor to your neck... and brought my new alb with me.  They provide everything else.

New alb hanging outside my wardrobe
 Having arrived at St. Peter's, vested and prepared, I was led by the sacristan to the Altar of St. Gregory the Great who died in AD 604... his tomb, his reliquary, is directly underneath this altar as you will see below.

St. Gregory the Great Altar at St. Peter's, Rome
This is where I said Mass on Sunday morning.  Note the oval shaped opening in the altar frontal. Inside, under the altar lies the white marble sarcophagus containing the relics and remains of this Great Pope.

The sacred remains of Pope St. Gregory the Great, under the altar
Here is a little blurb about the altar of St. Gregory that I took a picture of:


 It is no small thing for a priest to celebrate Mass in St. Peter's and at such an altar.  I am blessed indeed.

From St. Peter's I went for the Traditional Latin Mass at Santissima Trinita dei Pelligrini... but in this case, a Pontifical Mass because Pope Francis' vicar, Bishop Zuppi the auxiliary Bishop of central Rome was the celebrant.  More about that in a moment.  Meanwhile, I am getting pretty good at finding my way around - and I often use this piazza as my 'marker'.  It is Piazza Navona:


Piazza Navona is a large rectangular 'square' where you can buy just about anything and get your pocket picked at the same time.  The obelisk is from Egypt, as are most if not all the obelisks in Rome.  Under the obelisk is a fountain carved by Bernini (he was a busy fellow).It is the Fountain of the Four Rivers of the then-known continents, which are personified in the figures at the base of the obelisk: The Danube, Ganges, Nile, and Rio della Plata.  I am sure that somewhere Bernini has left a record of why the guy on the right has a sheet draped across his face... 



As I was saying, I navigated my way through the city to get to the Pontifical Mass later that morning at Santissima Trinita. This special Mass was reported at New Liturgical Movement and Rorate Coeli, and you can click on the link for  pictures.  I was seated near the altar, in choir, on the far left, just out of range of the camera (except for the last pic of Gregory DiPippo's piece in New Liturgical Movement... I'm the fourth dot on the left).

Monday morning, bright and early for the looooooooooooongest walk to a Station Church yet.  I probably pushed myself too hard, and have been paying for it a bit yesterday and today.  I left a bit later than I usually would, and then I forgot something and had to go back, so I was even later... so I was hoofing it at a pace that was a bit too much for me in my 'weakened' condition.  Add to all of this the fact that the Church for Monday, Quattro Coronati (sounds like an Audi?) is perched at the top of a hill so that we had a fairly steep climb right at the end when you are already tired.

Still, it was amazing.  It is an ancient church, like they all are, but it is quite far out of the way and it is lovingly served by Augustinian nuns who tried to welcome us warmly.  I say 'tried', not because they didn't succeed, but because there had been an power outage and the whole place was in darkness.  I took these pictures after the Mass when the sun was up.  We had been walking in the dark for most of the pilgrimage, and there were no lights in the interior of the Church.


It actually turned out to be a blessing in my opinion.  The nuns had put dozens of candles all around the church and it was absolutely mystical.  Quiet, contemplative and oozing with exactly the kind of atmosphere that one imagines in an medieval monastery church.  It couldn't have been better.


 As the sun came in through the windows in the apse (above), it was something spiritually delightful.




Of course, I still had to walk home... and attend a two hour class on proto-Renaissance art and architecture... and then tour St. Peter's Basilica with our lecturer.  Had Elizabeth Lev not been so dynamic, and engaging, I might have succumbed to my exhaustion.  But something had to give... so, tired and sore, I neglected my blog for a couple of days.  Now, I'm playing catch-up.




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